A record number of people across the globe enjoyed cracking open a Hawaiian lobster last year, but that experience depends on one thing – the lobster surviving the journey alive. A growing number of lobster with extremely soft shells have been harvested in Maui waters, and it has the budding industry scrambling for answers. Many are blaming Veilcorp’s controversial Icarus project, and increased levels of 127 in the environment for the deformed crustaceans, but scientists say the cause remains unclear.
Nicknamed “Blobsters” for their soft translucent, in extreme cases almost jelly-like shells. These diseased lobsters are a major concern for fishermen. While Hawaii doesn’t have a long tradition of lobster fishing, changing ocean currents, and fluctuating water temperatures have created a budding industry across the islands. $45 million of Hawaiian lobster left the islands last year for dinner tables across the world, but it is the very conditions that boosted the industry in the first place, that may be its undoing, according to marine biologist Alanai Kalipalani.
“We know that increases in water temperature leads to ocean acidification, and a number of other problems involving mineral imbalances that may be the cause of the extreme changes we are seeing in the lobster,” says Kalipalani. “We’ve been studying the issue of shell softening in crustaceans for decades now, and while the case of these so called blobsters is extreme, we just don’t know enough to place the blame on any one thing. I think since the Icarus project was announced in February, it has become a convenient boogeyman that gets used as a scapegoat for any problem, or unusual natural event we don’t understand. The truth of the matter is epizootic shell disease, and other problems have been on the rise long before the Icarus program. There’s no doubt we should be concerned. I just want the concern pointed in a direction that will lead to results, not just accusations.”
Despite Kalipalani’s doubts about Veilcorp’s involvement, not everyone is as ready to agree with her findings, and take the spotlight off the company. Jake Pilua, one of the biggest seafood distributors on the island, says Veilcorp’s culpability is obvious, and points out Alanai’s ties to the corporation. “Mrs. Kalipalani has been one of the lead researchers in the urchin restoration project for over three years. So I can understand her desire to keep her job, but I’m trying to save an entire industry. Unless people get real honest about the problem, real quick, I’m not sure there will be a commercial lobster fishery in 5 years. The problem is that bad. I’ll concede that shell softening has been a concern for a long time, but there are only a few places in the world where we have seen the blobster phenomena. Those places all have one thing in common; they are near a large veil station. It couldn’t be any clearer that the higher concentrations of 127 in these areas is having an effect on the lobster, and who knows what else. We need answers and solutions, and we need them fast.”
Kalipalani says there are some things distributors like Pilua can do to safeguard their catch, and help get answers to the problem. “We recommend manipulating ion concentrations in the tanks where the lobsters are stored before shipping, and adding mineral supplements to the water. We urge fishermen to document when and where they caught these extremely soft lobsters, and make note of the water temperature, and anything else unusual. If we’re going to solve this problem, we’re going to need to work together.”
The blobster problem may have many fishermen wondering about their futures, but not everyone sees the condition as a concern. In fact, SSHAM founder Art Pua’a says that he’s working on a way to use the shellfish unsuitable for transport in SSHAM’s Lahaina factory. “The test kitchen created a number of blobster infused loaves with some interesting flavor profiles, but one in particular stood out for its texture. We’re calling in Shlobster, and it’s by far the creamiest SSHAM yet. We hope to have cans available in limited markets within a month.”
Restaurateur Bob Abramo is also cashing in on the unusual shellfish, saying blobsters are the most exciting new food he’s seen in years. “They’re cheap, they’re tasty, and you can eat them whole,” says Abramo. “What’s not to love?” The meat mogul is not only offering the soft lobster on his menu, but says he hopes the condition expands to other species.
“One of the worst things about shellfish is that you can’t eat the shells. Clams and mussels are tasty, but the amount of meat you get out in proportion to the shell makes it hardly worth the effort, but if you could pop the whole thing in your mouth….then you’re talking a whole different story. Do you have any idea how much I’d pay to figure out how to jellify pig bones while they’re still in the pig. We’re talking about true snout to tail eating. While all these fishermen are running around like chickens with their heads cut off, they’re missing the big picture. Maybe these animals are just naturally developing to become more delicious. Humans have domesticated many different types of animals for food in our history. It’s possible this is just the beginning of a delectable domestic lobster. If it is, I’m marching into the future with my mind and mouth wide open.”
